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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary honour.